Surfer, Hawaii

Surfer, Hawaii

By 1779, riding waves lying down or standing on long, hardwood surfboards was an integral part of Hawaiian culture. The Polynesians who made the arduous journey from Tahiti and the Marquesas to Hawaii were necessarily exceptional waterfolk who brought a deep love and knowledge of the ocean with them. These women and men also brought their customs with them, including playing in the surf on paipo (belly) boards. Although Tahitians are said to have occasionally stood on their boards, the art of surfing upright on long boards was certainly perfected if not invented in Hawaii.